Heart, tenacity and Portuguese flavour

Chico’s Taverna reinvents itself as a new local gem

BY CHRIS NICHOL

Chico’s Taverna at 8656 118 Ave. | Rebekah Brunham

If you've travelled or lived in Europe, you'll know that one of the hallmarks of the continent are the cozy cafes and bistros that can be found in every small town. Quality ingredients, sincere and efficient service, and an atmosphere suitable for both quick visits and longer interludes of lounging with companions. It’s undeniably true that Europe just wouldn't be the same without these keystones of the community. To my delight, there is one such gem in Edmonton named Chico’s Taverna.

Handy Bakery was a beloved local Portuguese bakery that unfortunately was damaged by a fire near the end of 2022. The loss of the bakery was a shot to the heart for many local residents and businesses who have been working diligently to revive Alberta Avenue. But in February 2024, through hard work and tenacity, the owners operators Yvonne and Francisco (Chico himself) brought forth a new and exciting offering for our “villages” along the Avenue.

Chico's Taverna is everything one would expect from a similar European eatery. Cozy and simple, yet serious about what they do. Discerning in what they offer, yet unassuming when they welcome their guests. The one difference? Amongst a solid line-up of traditional and uniquely Portuguese dishes, their menu has a sprinkling of familiar Canadian options — there truly is something for everyone.

On my first visit, I ordered the spicy Portuguese prawns as an appetizer, followed by Bacalhau à Brás as a main. I must confess I am pathetically inept when it comes to eating prawns. When they have sauce on them, then that ineptness ends up all over my face. These prawns were plump, meaty, bathed in a flavourful sauce, and the spices were nicely balanced. The Bacalhau à Brás was something new to me, and I enjoyed every morsel. One of the most popular dishes at Chico's Taverna, it is shredded cod nicely blended with matchstick potatoes, egg, and onion, accompanied by a side of salad greens. It's one of those healthy and hearty meals that I could easily enjoy a few times a month. I finished off with their flan and the delightful Portuguese liqueur Beirão.

My second visit was for breakfast. I kept it simple, since I'm a firm believer that how a person prepares the humble eggs and bacon says a lot about their skillset. It's so easy to get wrong, even if just slightly. The Good Morning Breakfast was done just right in my humble opinion, and that's when I decided I should add Chico's Taverna to my regular circuit of breakfast joints.

Finally, I had to go back one more time to try the venerable Francesinha. This is truly a fantastic sandwich. Layers of tender beef, ham, and sausage between bread, generously covered in melted mozzarella, and then drenched in their stunningly delicious secret sauce. This was such a rich and satisfying dish, worthy of the best comfort foods. I didn't stop there. On the side I had their fava beans in wine sauce, which I thoroughly enjoyed. My dining experience for the evening was capped off with their tiramisu cheesecake, helping me realize by this point that their desserts rival the best that Handy Bakery had to offer.

Chico's Taverna is a local small business that deserves our love and attention. Francisco mans the front bar while Yvonne runs the kitchen, and they both double up as servers. It is clear that each of them loves bringing their Portuguese roots to the neighbourhood, pouring their hearts into this important Alberta Avenue keystone.

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CHICO’S TAVERNA

8656 118 Ave

Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7 pm