Chasing spring

The West Coast called me, but spring is a stubborn season

Edmonton's winter hangs on, with a snowfall on April 16. | Derek Quittenton

At the end of March, winter finally hit Edmonton. Much-needed snow, unwelcome cold, and disheartening dark skies assailed me. No other cure was possible: With low ticket prices on offer, I flew to the West Coast, where spring was waiting to gather me up in its warm and colourful arms.

Except, it didn’t work out that way.

If you ever decide to take the Pacific cure to Alberta winter, heed my advice. Leave not your long johns back home. Take your indispensable toque and mittens.

The blossoms were bursting in Vancouver and Victoria, but the temperatures were closely aligned with Edmonton at near zero. James Oakes, my gardener friend, mused on the arrival of spring in downtown Vancouver. Looking over his plantings — the hosta stems coming up sturdy and green — Oakes put it well: “Spring? Oh yes, it’s here. Just pretend it’s warm.”

Dog walkers enjoy Bute Street cherry blossoms on April 16 in Vancouver’s West End. | Constance Brissenden

Armed with my woollies, I took the SkyTrain, followed by a transit bus, to a BC Ferry in Tsawwassen, and then onto another bus into Victoria. I had booked the Ocean Island Inn on Pandora Street, a true backpackers’ hotel at under $120 per night, sharing a double room with my niece Roberta Loyie. Free breakfast, free supper (best described as healthy mush), plus a free glass of wine or beer each day was included. You can’t beat that.

We went in search of blossoms. Both Victoria and Vancouver were celebrating with cherry blossom festivals. Victoria blossoms first, with a notable array in Chinatown on Fisgard Street. One cherry or plum tree can boast upwards of 750,000 blossoms.

Victoria’s famed trees were a gift from the citizens of Tokyo after the Second World War. Two thousand Sakura (cherry) trees were planted to thank the city for welcoming Japanese as residents after the war.

The sun was out, but the winds off the ocean were chilly. Victoria blossoms came early, I was informed, due to an unusual warm stint in March. By the time I arrived, it was back to typical April weather, damp and cold. The big blossoms had retreated temporarily, but daffodils, tulips, magnolias, and peonies were on display.

Cherry blossoms decorate Fisgard Street in Victoria’s Chinatown. | Constance Brissenden

For some visitors, it still looked like spring, even without cherry blossoms. On a Victoria bus, I chatted with Ian and Christina Williams of Calgary. On their way to a family weekend celebrating their son’s 40th birthday, they were in awe of one truly spring-like natural phenomenon. “I love the green grass,” cooed Christina. “It’s still all white and snowy in Alberta.”

Back in Vancouver, as April moved along, it rained one night, pattering on the windowsill of my room in the West End. The sun rose, with temperatures rising above 13 degrees. I was still wearing long johns, but the sun was delightfully warming.

Suddenly, the cherry trees made their presence felt. Entire streets decked out with canopies of pink blossoms. Sheer pleasure!

I had chased spring, and finally caught up with it.

Back home in Edmonton, snow fell again on April 16. What did I care? We needed snow in Alberta. Spring was on its way. And I already had a head start on summer.