A new culinary destination is breathing fresh life into the Alberta Avenue neighbourhood. Taste of Hakka and Thakali Kitchen & Bar officially opened its doors on July 1 at 9563 118 Ave. NW, bringing a unique, multi-ethnic approach to dining that aims to cater to the diverse palates of Edmonton residents.
I sat down with Rabindra “Ravi” Phuyal, a hospitality veteran with a deep-rooted passion for the foods of his heritage. With a bachelor’s degree in hotel management from Nepal and previous experience running establishments in Canada — including a hotel in Barrhead and a five-year tenure managing a Ricky’s All Day Grill — he saw an opportunity to revitalize a space that had hosted several previous businesses.
“I recognized the previous business had good intentions and food, but needed an update in terms of management and responding to what the public wants to eat,” Ravi explains. His strategy for success? Variety.
The restaurant’s core identity lies in its namesake: Hakka and Thakali cuisines. Ravi describes Hakka as a flavourful diaspora cuisine from the South Asian region, blending influences from India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Himalayas. It is characterized by hearty portions, bold spices, and a focus on vegetable and chicken dishes. At its heart, the Thakali Khana Thali offers a more refined, traditional Nepalese experience. This set meal features a delicate balance of northern and southern spices — including timur from the north and jimbu from the high Himalayas — paired with sizzling ghee rice, lentils, pickles, yogurt, and fermented lettuce.
However, Ravi is quick to emphasize that his vision goes beyond just these two specialties. “I want people to be able to try the various foods from the Himalayan and Indo-Chinese diaspora under one roof rather than have to go to separate specialized restaurants,” he says. This inclusive approach means the menu is a globetrotting affair. Guests can find everything from standard Indian favourites like butter chicken and clay-oven chicken tikka, to Southeast Asian staples like Nasi Goreng, Thai green curry, and Tom Yum soup.
For those who want to dive into the full experience, Ravi recommends the Hakka or Thakali family combos. These offerings give a taste of the traditional set meals at a value-conscious price point. Furthermore, customization is a priority; the restaurant offers different proteins (all Halal) or vegetarian options and is happy to adjust spice levels for western tastes, offering meals that are mild by default unless diners request otherwise.
The commitment to authenticity is also evident in the kitchen’s equipment, particularly the real clay oven used to prepare tandoori, naan and roti. For diners with dietary restrictions, the kitchen can even prepare chickpea flour roti upon request for a gluten-free option.
Ravi and his chef and business partner Gir Raj Khatri go way back. He worked with him in Dubai as a catering manager at Fly Emirates. Kahtri was responsible for the food of the previous establishment and, with Ravi’s management experience, the team is well-equipped to handle the operational demands of their eclectic menu. By creating a space that accommodates groups with varying comfort levels regarding ethnic food, Ravi hopes to foster a welcoming environment where community members can explore new flavours together.
Post-interview, I tried a couple of the recommended dishes: the chili chicken Hakka noodle and the chicken momo. The noodle dish was an appealing stir-fry with a good helping of vegetables and meat. I found the spice level lower than what I am used to, so I would request a spicier version next time. The momo was a traditional Nepalese steamed meat or vegetable dumpling that has a unique spice blend and came with homemade chili and sesame dipping sauces. The masala spiced filling had quite a kick, and the dumpling was perfectly steamed so it wasn’t too soft or too firm. At 10 large pieces, it would make a great appetizer for sharing.
As the Alberta Avenue dining scene continues to evolve, Taste of Hakka and Thakali stands as a testament to the idea that great food, like the diverse communities it represents, is best enjoyed with variety and a sense of shared discovery.
